In Maui, the marvels are as abundant as the vowels, and they all flow rhythmically together. The fresh water (wai) streams of the windward side run adjacent to deep ocean water before releasing into it. This wetness is offset on the leeward side by drier weather, calmer water and more tourists. The two volcanoes of Maui – Haleakala and Kahanawai (inactive) – are what separate the windward and leeward sides and account for the weather differential alongside the ever present trade winds.

The airport happens to be on the windward end in Kalahuli, so we opted to stay the night there before beginning our adventure the next morning on the road to Hana. Having never been to Maui, I actually didn’t know much about the famed Road to Hana.

I knew we had to do it, but I was a bit leery of the touristy aspect and wanted to avoid crowds (who doesn’t?). The best call in this respect was to book a night in Hana so that we could spend two days seeing all that this route has to offer. For some reason, most people seem to travel the road to Hana and back on the same day. The route is 3 hrs give or take each way without stopping, so it really is a grueling day to just drive the roundtrip, let alone with stops built in to actually experience the wonders as well. By taking two days, we were able to take our time and see more places. The real hidden gem though in the whole route, is Hana itself!

By the time we arrived in Hana after driving that first day we were ready to drop our stuff in the room and head straight to the ocean. This was our first Hawaiian beach, which featured spackled black sand in a beautiful cove. The realization that we were actually in Hawaii and on vacation finally sunk in with that first swim, and it was cool to see mostly locals there in Hana Bay with us. Because Hana is on the windward side facing the deep turbid water between Maui and the big island, snorkeling would have to wait, but there was joy in the waves.

After showering and settling in a bit in our condo we went out to dinner at the Hana Ranch. Oh my was it delicious. I think I had the best spicy chicken sandwich I’ve ever chicken-sandwiched. Even better, everyone else loved their food also and couldn’t stop raving about it. Ahhh, vacationy rest and relaxation had arrived. We made it.

We went to sleep not long after returning to our condo in the early evening. The next morning we enjoyed some delicious Kona coffee that was left for us and headed back on the Road. We had been to Hana, and were pleased to discover that the destination was actually just as good as the storied journey to get there.

We hiked the Pipiwa trail in HaleAkala National Park at the end of the proverbial Road before turning back. Highlights included the biggest waterfall in Maui and the hauntingly lovely chorus of bamboo reeds clacking in the forest. The rest of the morning we were virtually alone as those roadsters that had started the route from the other side of the island had not yet reached Hana. As a result, we were able to enjoy the black sand beaches of Wainapanapa and the rainbow eucalyptus stands in that part of the forest without a crush of other tourists. The views, the little beaches, the precarious road, the waterfalls, the fresh-water pools and streams, all make the Road to Hana spectacular. Google it and take a look. Here are some of our pictures below.

Having started our trip in fine fashion with a two-day adventure on the rougher windward side of the island, we were now headed to the leeward side, with its calmer waters for snorkeling and straight-chillin. Specifically, we were going to Wailea for two nights which is famed for its resorts and luxe accommodations. Generally speaking, I’m more of a hostel and backpacking type of traveler, preferring to spend most of my time away from hotels, tourists and group activities. I don’t like being called “sir” and I enjoy meeting regular people, which tends to preclude high-end resorts. That said, like many others, we had watched both seasons of “The White Lotus” and were looking forward to putting our feet up for a couple of days and enjoying the service.

I think that they must have thought we were someone else, because we got an amazing room giving us direct access to the beach from our lanai (Hawaiian for patio). This hotel also has a mini waterpark with the biggest waterslide on Maui, which happens to be Sebastian’s current obsession. It was amazing, I definitely felt spoiled and enjoyed our time there, but I have to say that I was ready to go after the second night. I guess I’m just not that into luxury for luxury’s sake. Ultimately, such amenities are man-made, and the beauty of Hawaii decidedly isn’t. Good thing it was time to move on! First, some pics below:

Out next stop was Kaanapali Beach, which is one of the most visited areas on Maui due to its extended stretch of white sand beaches and turquoise waters. It is also just north of the town of Lahaina, which tragically burned last August in the worst natural disaster in Hawaii’s modern history. I’m sure we have all read about what happened there, but to see it is truly shocking. The roads don’t allow any non-residents access to the downtown area, but the damage continues into the outskirts of town which we passed in route to Kaanapali. I have never seen such destruction.

There is a great emphasis in Maui on respecting the local land and the culture and traditions of the Hawaiian people. There are signs all over the island beseeching tourists to show “respect.” In Lahaina, non-residents aren’t even allowed to enter because of the lack of consideration that too many news crews and gawking tourists have brought. Implied in these constant reminders is the underlying sense of the local people that too many visitors don’t show proper care or respect for Maui, its people and their traditions. As I spent more time on Maui I began to see why.

There are a few factors at play here I think. One is that at any given time there are seven tourists on Maui for every local resident. If Hawaiians have the sense that too many resources are reserved for visitors, this incredible 7:1 ratio is clearly the beginning of the problem. Secondly, Maui is the most incredibly expensive place that I have ever been. It is double the cost of many other similar exotic locales, and three to four times the cost of traveling to a non-first-world country. On an island whose people largely subsist on tourist dollars, you can imagine that the jobs available make it almost impossible to survive financially here. As a result, more and more Hawaiians are forced to leave. Obviously, rising costs and unaffordable housing is a worldwide problem currently, but the situation in Maui is so exacerbated as to be a new type of problem. Hawaii is the most remote place in the world, so if you have to move, chances are its the type of move that takes you far away from your family and friends. This I think adds to the discontent as well.

From a macro perspective, I was surprised to learn that Hawaii just joined the United States in 1959, becoming the 50th state in the nation. While there are obvious upsides to US citizenship, the downside of being consumed by the most powerful country on earth is apparent as well. What was once the Kingdom of Hawaii, had become just another US state. What’s more, many people alive today were around to witness the entire timeline of this transition. I can imagine they may not have enjoyed seeing the erosion of their culture and traditions in favor of ubiquitous luaus for tourists.

Given my own experience, I kept thinking about the people of Costa Rica, who are famous for being among the most friendly and welcoming in the world. There are definitely obnoxious visitors there also, and the cost of living situation, if less dire, is still a real issue for Costa Ricans.

That said, they still speak Spanish as a first language in Costa Rica. They have a President and Congress based in the capital of their country who focus on what’s best for Costa Ricans, their wildlife and their land. I don’t think its a coincidence that the astounding beauty of Costa Rica exists alongside some of the most stringent environmental protections in the world. In short, Costa Ricans run Costa Rica. In contrast, Hawaiians don’t have a similar ability to manifest their own destiny. In Hawaii, the capital of the United States’ federal government is a continent and an ocean away. Politics is one thing, but their local economy and infrastructure all revolve around outsiders as well. As I came to understand this reality, the vacation took on a bit of a different tone for me.

The net effect was that even though we spent the next week sleeping in one of the most trafficked parts of Maui at Kaanapali Beach, we only spent one day there, using the rest of the time to explore more remote areas. Fortunately, there is no shortage of amazing locales to choose from. One of our best days included a drive above the clouds to the top of the HaleAkala volcano, which sits at over ten thousand feet. We did a short hike around and through the crater before heading back down to the coast. An hour later, we were sitting on a whale watching boat getting ready to head out in the harbor. What a juxtaposition! It was as though we had been to the moon and back, but still had even more to discover.

As it happens, the whale watching tour itself was a highlight. There are still hundreds of humpback whales around Maui at this time of the year, and we were able to follow breaching adolescents running alongside their mothers, who themselves were trying to fend off the last of the single males still hanging around the area looking for a hookup. If you know me, you know that this type of adventure is right up my alley, but it was about to get even better. The skipper of the ship was a New Zealander named Kiwi, who put on a Dead and Company live set as we got out of the harbor. He went on to explain that his wife had introduced him to the Grateful Dead 12 years before, and in the days between he always plays a new Dead set because he’s convinced that the humpbacks respond to the improvisational music. His logic and steadfast conviction convinced me as well, but I might be a little biased.

All in all, we had an amazing time, that I’m sure we will all remember in different ways. I definitely hope that we get the chance to go back together to Hawaii as a family. Much more to explore and to learn!